Lithuania suffered a similar fate to Latvia, however the capital Vilnius was controlled by Poland and most of their history was imposed on them from that end of Europe. Russia played its part and imposed its building regulations on the country but left much of the medieval buildings intact. Vilnius claims to have the largest number of medieval buildings in Europe - many have been renovated with modern materials. The "feel" of the place is modern - many of the streets are wide boulevards which were created by the Germans and Soviets by demolishing entire intermediate streets. The transfer of population was not as dramatic as Latvia. The walking tour was a little more interesting as a consequence and we felt that the Lithuanians were a little more playful.

A group of artists went as far as setting up their own Republic on an island in the centre of Vilnius - all tongue-in-cheek but embraced by the locals. The Republic of Uzupis has its own constitution and National day - on the 1st of April, naturally. Their motto is "Don't fight, don't win, don't surrender". On National Day the borders are patrolled, passports stamped and visas checked. A Uzupis visa is a smile. It has even been known for the village pump to flow with free beer on this day.

We thoroughly endorsed the Constitution of Uzupis:

1. Everyone has the right to live by the River Vilnelé, and the River Vilnelé has the right to flow by everyone.
2. Everyone has the right to hot water, heating in winter and a tiled roof.
3. Everyone has the right to die, but this is not an obligation.
4. Everyone has the right to make mistakes.
5. Everyone has the right to be unique.
6. Everyone has the right to love.
7. Everyone has the right not to be loved, but not necessarily.
8. Everyone has the right to be undistinguished and unknown.
9. Everyone has the right to idle.
10. Everyone has the right to love and take care of the cat.
11. Everyone has the right to look after the dog until one of them dies.
12. A dog has the right to be a dog.
13. A cat is not obliged to love its owner, but must help in time of need.
14. Sometimes everyone has the right to be unaware of their duties.
15. Everyone has the right to be in doubt, but this is not an obligation.
16. Everyone has the right to be happy.
17. Everyone has the right to be unhappy.
18. Everyone has the right to be silent.
19. Everyone has the right to have faith.
20. No one has the right to violence.
21. Everyone has the right to appreciate their unimportance. (In Lithuanian this reads Everyone has the right to realize his negligibility and magnificence.)
22. No one has the right to have a design on eternity.
23. Everyone has the right to understand.
24. Everyone has the right to understand nothing.
25. Everyone has the right to be of any nationality.
26. Everyone has the right to celebrate or not celebrate their birthday.
27. Everyone shall remember their name.
28. Everyone may share what they possess.
29. No one can share what they do not possess.
30. Everyone has the right to have brothers, sisters and parents.
31. Everyone may be independent.
32. Everyone is responsible for their freedom.
33. Everyone has the right to cry.
34. Everyone has the right to be misunderstood.
35. No one has the right to make another person guilty.
36. Everyone has the right to be individual.
37. Everyone has the right to have no rights.
38. Everyone has the right to not to be afraid.
39. Do not defeat.
40. Do not fight back.
41. Do not surrender.

The food and beer was good in this lively city - the only downside was a graffiti problem. It was so bad that Vilnius' UNESCO world heritage status was under threat…