Hence health
is a major concern. After Pippa's visit in April, Keith suffered a major
infection in his foot from a sea urchin spine. This sent his immune system
into overdrive which was reflected in the 6-monthly blood tests used to
monitor his Lymphoma. Whilst we were in Penang we decided that Christine
should also check out all her niggling health problems. This culminated
in a small operation to have her gall bladder removed. The medical facilities
in Penang, Malaysia are excellent and state-of-the-art with many of the
specialists trained in the UK and USA. Costs are reasonable, language
no problem and no waiting lists!
After this
pit stop we went on our travels. Flying is a good way to get around, however
its major downside is the likelihood of catching an infection from the
crowds, especially if you have a compromised immune system like Keith
has. Sure enough, half way through our trip he picked up a chest infection
that would not shift despite repeated antibiotics.
Following
our trip we went back to Penang to seek advice and check Keith's immune
system; his markers were up again and a further course of stronger antibiotics
was prescribed. Around December he finally shook off these ailments, however
the blood test results showed his markers were up again! Not a current
cause for concern, but not what we expected.
We had a
visit to KL to see Rosie, our new granddaughter, in October when they
came over to see Jas' parents which was a real delight.
We finally
got back to Poco Andante mid-October and set-to to finish the underwater
jobs. These done she was just about in the water when poor Poco
got hit by a lightning strike taking out many of the electronics. This
resulted in a month delay and a backbreaking time to replace the items
that had suffered.
Fate can
also produce some positives as well. Whilst we were on the hard we had
a visit from a fellow cruiser who had a few queries. Christine was certain
she knew this couple but couldn't place them; they were new to cruising
so it wasn't from this arena. Anyway over dinner with them one evening
it clicked. Gill and Aidan were once one of Christine's clients/colleagues
in our previous UK existence. What an amazing coincidence.
We are now
back in the water off some island in Thailand and after much discussion
we have decided to put off the decision to cross the Indian Ocean until
next season and will enjoy Thailand and Malaysia again, with maybe some
more overland travel. Who knows? Fate may again cause us to reassess.
SE
Asian Trip - check out the photos on the links below.
Bangkok,
Thailand. Highlights: Snake farm- wore a Burmese Python Scarf. Heavy!
Counterfeit Museum - more than just handbags, informative. Bridge on the
River Kwai and the Death Railway
Luang Prabang, Northern Laos. Fell in love with this old colonial
town. Food great. Went on Elephant ride and bathed with them in the Mekong
River - humbled by these huge beasts. Cooking classes for Keith, silk
weaving for Christine; there are extremely skilful artisans here (she
could have bought so much!), she also helped out a few times at Big Brother
Mouse, a volunteer organisation helping teach English to local students
Spent the day at the boat races, in front of our hotel - 20 Teams of 50
oarsmen in 100 foot long canoes, battling it out on the muddy river. This,
as well as the early morning procession of 100's of monks collecting alms
- both a spectacle.
Vientiane,
capital of Laos. Not much here. Cycled to COPE Centre who provide
artificial limbs for victims of land mines and other unexploded ordinance
dropped during the Vietnam War. Still a major problem. Laos was neutral
during this conflict but had hundreds of millions of ordinance dropped
on them; many of them failed to explode and still cause hundreds of injuries
each year.
Phnom
Penh, Cambodia. Old French colonial town. Cambodia, still hasn't recovered
from the Khmer Rouges' barbaric rule of four years in the late seventies.
They murdered millions of people in sites called the killing fields. The
main monument to this slaughter can be seen just outside of the city.
A well laid out park, with audio guided walk, culminates in a tall mausoleum
filled with human sculls. The normal tourist trip to this site also includes
a visit to S21 a school that had been turned into a torture centre for
the Khmer Rouge. I'm sure everyone who visits must ask the question "Why
did the world turn a blind eye to this barbarity?"
Siem
Reap, Cambodia. 1,000 year old temple ruins covering an awe inspiring
50 + square kms. We covered these on bicycles, the first day visiting
the largest temples and the second on a 35km grand tour of the outlying
sites and the third day recovering by the pool at our small, but lovely
boutique hotel.
Battambang,
Cambodia. We crossed TonLe Sap Lake the largest inland waterway in
SE Asia - a 6 hour journey in a small long tail ferry. The main channel
was full of water hyacinths; not sure how the helmsman found his way through.
There were frequent stops to clear the motor of plant debris. Some channels
were so narrow you had to stand in the centre of the boat to avoid being
hit by branches. A very interesting trip. Half way along we stopped at
a floating village/town for light refreshments. Battambang itself was
a little run down but the journey there was worth it.
Ho
Chi Min City, Vietnam. Large bustling modern city, very affluent.
The war remnants museum was worth the visit, the displays showing Vietnam's
version of events during the Vietnam War was explained in three languages:
Vietnamese, English and propaganda.
The presidential
palace has been restored to its original 1968 splendour complete with
the tank that crashed through the gate to signify the end of the war.
Hoi
An, Vietnam. A delightful town turned over to the job of extracting
money from tourists - a huge industry in Vietnam. Christine stocked up
on new outfits, cheap but chic. Found a lovely restaurant next to our
hotel. Ate there most nights as the food was so good.
Hué,
Vietnam. Learnt lots about the history of Vietnam at the Citadel a
large 200 year old walled city, heavily bombed but slowly being tastefully
restored and with good information.
Phong
Nha National Park, Vietnam. Took a connection from Hué to here
via the DMZ and Vinh Moc Tunnels, a town that built a labyrinth underground
to protect themselves from the incessant bombing. Worth the visit. The
limestone caves at Phong Nha are the largest discovered in the world.
The largest only discovered recently, can house the Empire state building
of New York in its main chamber, was closed for the wet season. We visited
a few others of equal magnitude - awesome. One such cave was a supply
dump along the Ho Chi Minh trail. This was bombed almost daily but is
so large and impregnable that only small scars are evident on the cliff
face. I tried my hand at a bit of speleology ended up covered in mud squeezed
through narrow passages and jumping from high wires into muddy rivers
- refreshing.
Hanoi,
Vietnam. The end of our Vietnam visit. Loved this city with all its
little shops; some selling just one item, like brushes or wire or bamboo
scaffolding!
Chang
Mai, Thailand. Another old walled city. Met a guy from the East End
of London, selling fresh fish and chips - UK style- unreal! In contrast,
also visited a couple of tribal villages - certainly an eclectic mix.
The notes
above do not cover all the lovely people we met and the fun time we had
just wandering around. Travelling through this part of the world is an
eye opener, from the affluent first world cities to the small villages
with paddy fields and oxen as their main means of transport. Getting around
was a major undertaking - we came close to major accidents twice during
our trip, After one incident between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap
when the coach ahead hit an agricultural cart sending its occupants flying,
we swerved and avoided total carnage, The road and weather was appalling.
We decided to fly or go by train over larger distances. Even so, a similar
accident occurred on a train trip from Dong Hoi to Hanoi. An agricultural
tractor was hit by our train. Fortunately no one was hurt, however the
train chef on board had a problem as the delay of over four hours meant
another meal had to be served. This difficulty was obviously solved when
we saw him come through the carriage with a couple of braces of chickens
under his arm. Much better fare than the boiled duck embryo eggs served
earlier on the journey. We took hundreds of photos and hopefully you will
get a chance to check them out on the links below.
In total
we were on the road for 7 weeks; Christine had budgeted $1,800 for the
travel and accommodation for 6 weeks (excluding food, tours and entertainment,
etc, extra). Our total spend was $1,900; that's one benefit of travelling
with two accountants - budgets must be met! Saying that, we stayed in
some lovely hotels (3 and 4 star) and the cost of meals, tours, etc.,
were not expensive and our switch to more flights did not impact the budget
at all.
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