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is supported
by fleets of high speed power boats, long tail "fishing boats"
and large ferries taking thousands to the surrounding islands daily. Koh
Muk was no exception. Like every other tourist site we visited, these
various craft scream in, screech to a halt, disgorge their passengers
and barely after they've arrived, off they go again to the next beach,
hong or old film set. The process at Koh Muk was a highlight in its efficiency.
The pleasure craft arrive. Life jackets donned, the passengers jump into
the water, form up into a line, each clinging onto the life jacket of
the person in front and, like an orange crocodile, snake through the cave
entrance guided by a local. With squeals of delight the whole entourage
is plunged into darkness as they pass through the cave entrance, emerging
at the other side into an enclosed limestone "room", paved with
a white beach and sheltered by mangroves, surrounded by towering cliffs,
with no obvious way out. There is no escape if you find yourself trying
to fight this human tide; your only option was go with the flow! We stood
on the beach mesmerized by this influx, but with photos taken the crocodile
turns and moves out leaving us to marvel at the peace and tranquility
of being alone in these magical places. We soon learnt that these influxes
of tourists are fleeting and we visited the most popular sites late afternoon
and early morning, where we had the places to ourselves.
With Koh
Muk "ticked off" we headed to Koh Ngai for the night; a resort
island, generally undiscovered by the hordes, we anchor off the beach
and spent a couple of days, snorkelling, walking and enjoying our first
taste of Thai Food from the restaurants and bars along the beach.
In 2000 The
Beach, staring Leonardo DiCaprio, was filmed on a small beach on Phi Phi
Le. The Thai tourism authority then went into overdrive and created a
"must visit" place, fed by hundreds of power craft to ferry
the gullible masses of tourists. We picked up a mooring on the south side
of the island and dinghied to the "Beach". Rounding the point
with the "Beach" in sight, we stopped - there was no way we
could land, wall-to-wall speed boats, thousands of people, not our type
of thing! We did stop on an adjacent beach and just gazed in amazement
at the comings and goings. Here we observed the latest hobby - "The
Photo Shoot" - where, with expensive digital camera in hand, one
person (the photographer), shouts commands at the "model" who
then tries to emulate Elle Macpherson et al. We surmised these "glam"
photos would be posted onto Facebook! This pastime became a common sight
on all the Thai beaches, much to our amusement.
Having learned
our lesson we returned to the boats and waited until the people went back
to their hotels, and enjoyed solitude and sundowners on the beach! Phi
Phi Don, a few miles away, is vying for the accolade of most beautiful
island in the world - unfortunately out-of-control development and tatty
surroundings detract from this once idyllic sand strewn place. Amongst
the beached wreckage of old long tails we celebrated Kevin's birthday
(Santana) - party time again!
A day sail/motor
took us to Ao Chalong where we officially cleared into Thailand - a straight
forward exercise. We hung around here for a few days, stocking up with
delicacies, such as bacon, pork and sausages (after 3 months in muslim
Malaysia) - and visits to Tescos supermarket - a delight.
Our general
plan was to continue cruising up the west coast to the border with Myanmar
and then return south via the Surin and Similan Islands. The west coast
of Phuket is bounded by lovely beaches, wall-to-wall sunbeds, night clubs,
massage parlours, bars and restaurants. Interestingly, the most common
"foreign language" was Russian with most restaurants providing
menus written in Russian.
There are
many great anchorages along the way encouraging a slow meander and lazy
attitude. Meals ashore were a delight and it was often cheaper than eating
on board - around $5 for a main course. Our favourite places were Freedom
Bay and Nai Harn (Airport Anchorage). At Nai Harn we again met up with
Santana who were taking the same route and agreed to sail in company.
After leaving
Phuket and the tourists behind, we motored north, firstly anchoring at
the Naval Base at Ban Thap Lamu. The Naval Wives Club restaurant here
came highly recommended by Gary from Inspiration Lady, but we decided
to stay on board (a month or two later we drove here from Phuket, whilst
Keith's foot healed and enjoyed their delightful food). Further north
we entered a coastal "channel" through mangroves - with little
or no visitors we often had these glorious beaches to ourselves.
Koh Phayam,
just 4 miles from the Burmese border, was our final island on our northward
journey. This is a delightful place, there are two protected bays on the
west and one on the east so there's good anchorage the whole year. Long
Beach, where we spent nearly two weeks was delightful and very laid back
- little bars and restaurants, a lovely beach, surf - it has it all. There
are no cars on the island so scooters are the main form of transport.
After much persuasion, supported by Santana, I got Christine to
be pillion passenger for a tour of the island. Apart from the screams
and claw marks on my back we had a lovely day.
Apart from
rubber, Koh Phayam's main cash crop is cashew nuts - these were being
harvested whilst we were there. Cashews are a strange crop, they are in
two parts, the fruit (cashew apple) and protruding from beneath this is
the nut. I tried the apple which is very astringent and also bit into
the nut - unbeknownst to me the nut is highly toxic and has to be boiled,
steamed,soaked and dried before it can be eaten. This episode left me
with a swollen lip covered in sores for a week - eating Thai chili food
was impossible!
On Boxing
Day 2004 the west coast of Thailand was hit by a tsunami, although today
there is little sign of its destruction except for a few abandoned hotels.
One enterprising group collected debris from the beaches and built a bar
in the form of a galleon in Buffalo Bay, Koh Phayam - an interesting landmark.
Lotus eating
cannot go on forever, so we headed south to visit the Surins and Similans.
These are two groups of island in the Andaman Sea are managed by the Thai
National Parks Authority. Despite the ubiquitous tourist boats these are
both worth a visit. The Surins have lovely anchorages/moorings. There
were half a dozen yachts at one anchorage attracted by a lovely beach
with barbeque and afternoon rest spot under a huge shade tree, bordered
by sparkling clear blue water. This became the favourite place to hang
out. A return visit is a must.
The Similans,
being closer to Phuket, were much busier, although there was plenty of
moorings, the waters around were a bit choppy. Lovely diving here - I
joined up with Helmut and Kerstin from Lop to for a dive - we had
a lovely time exploring some underwater sculptures and coral outcrops
littered with a myriad of sealife.
After the Similans we made our way back to Ao Chalong visiting some new
places on the way. An unfortunate incident at Patong beach left us with
a chunk out of the bow, when a Jet Ski hit us - we were at anchor! I don't
think the rider will be so willing to play chicken around yachts again
On the east
side of Phuket is huge Phang Nga Bay,littered with towering islands made
from limestone. This reactive rock is worn by the wind and rain to create
surprising pillars strewn with caves, tunnels and hongs (hidden "rooms"
in the centre of islands, often only accessible through small hidden caves).
The most
famous of these is James Bond Island made famous by a couple of seconds
of fame in The Man With the Golden Gun forty years ago. Most of today's
visitors weren't even born when this was filmed! This film set is photographed
by thousands each day, another tribute to Thai Tourism marketing. A whole
industry of speed boats, restaurants, and excursions have been built around
this unassuming rock, we spent 10 minutes here and escaped - disillusioned.
Avoiding the tourist traps in Phang Nga Bay is easy as there are hundreds
of other delightful places to see; often we would have breakfast at one
island, lunch at another and overnight at a tourist spot, which we often
had to ourselves. This trip was an exploratory trip to work out an itinerary
for Pippa and Xavier (Christine's niece and great nephew) forthcoming
visit.
Pippa and
Xavi duly arrived. We had pulled into Ao Po Grand Marina to rearrange
and tidy Poco. Our itinerary was not very adventurous but packed
in a lot of visits to hongs, beaches, islands, etc. Xavi loved exploring
caves and was a true water baby - he particularly enjoyed going fast in
the inflatable dinghy! So entertainment for the six year old Xavi was
easy. Highlights: BBQ at Koh Hong Krabi, seeing a dolphin close up, caves
and hongs at Koh Phanak, visit to Paradise Island resort where we had
great fun in the pool, and just generally messing around in boats. We
all had a lovely week, the weather was good and company delightful. It
was sad to see the two leave.
To drop them
off we pulled into Ao Po Marina again and decided to stay a while to do
some boat projects: replace the 10-year-old canvas work, change our anchor
chain (now considerably worn) and maintain and refurbish the aft heads.
These projects were underway when Keith's left foot became painful and
infected and he was unable to walk. We hired a car and paid a visit to
Phuket International Hospital. After a brief examination an abcess was
discovered, which was excised and a portion of sea urchin spine discovered
- daily visits for wound dressing was ordered and total rest in between.
Boat projects were halted midstream for the next week. The wound quickly
healed and after three weeks our projects were completed. We checked out
of Thailand as our Visas had expired, and headed back to Langkawi, Malaysia
for the wet season. Our trip south was faster, the weather had started
to close in and exposed anchorages became uncomfortable. After a four
day trip we arrived in Kuah and met up with Santana, Swara
and Lop to again. We are now planning to head south to Penang for
a while and after that - not sure, but we certainly will be heading back
to Thailand later in the year.
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