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Sorry we didn't get a chance to send a general email
announcing our departure - we had a few communication problems to sort
out. We also had a really hectic last couple of days sorting everything
out to get away. Finally, at 10.30pm on 31st July, 2003 we left Hythe
Marina for the start of our exciting journey. Rob (Keith's son) joined
us for the trip to Torquay. We got as far as Yarmouth (on the Isle of
Wight)! We were so tired that we picked up a mooring outside Yarmouth
and slept soundly. At about 10.30am we set off through the Needles Channel
in drizzly, grey conditions and the headwind picking up from the West
at about Force 5-6. Decided that Weymouth was a much better destination
than Torquay! Next morning we set off for Torquay in glorious sunshine
with Force 2-3 winds. Motored around Portland Bill using the inshore passage
- clear day, calm seas, wonderful views. Then sailed across Lyme Bay.
Rob caught 3 mackerel which were gratefully received for appetisers! But
first he had a lesson in gutting!
Reached Torquay after a lovely day and pulled up against
the harbour wall - there to stay for a week or so while doing the unfinished
tasks and catching up on some much needed R&R! The weather was hot
and sunny - and the holiday makers were out in force enjoying the seaside.
Although we had lots of chores/tasks to do, we tried to space them out
each day and take a bit of chill out time. Being tied up alongside the
main harbour wall made us the focus of lots of holiday photos! It was
quite funny being on board and watching/listening to the holiday makers
stop and peer at the boat/us. One afternoon (after most of them had gone
for the day) I got out my sewing machine and sat on top of the harbour
wall plugged into the 240 volts up there to make some canvas cushion covers
for the cockpit. Produced scissors, tape measure and thread from my pocket
and unrolled the canvas on the ground, measured it and cut it up and sat
down on one of those garden kneeling pads to sew. The people walking past
kept stopping to look! One old couple watched for quite a time from one
of the seats on the harbour wall - and when they got up to go, came over
and said they applauded me - and promptly started a little hand clapping.
It was really amusing. The cushions look great. We've now got two long
"seat" cushions covered in the white and burgundy striped canvas
and about 6 square soft cushions. Dresses the cockpit up nicely.
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Also while we were there and the weather so calm,
we tried out our new storm trysail and track. The track had a snag half
way up so Keith demonstrated his nimbleness by going up the mast steps!
This proved an endless source of fascination to the onlookers - especially
when Keith used the opportunity to change the steaming light bulb! The
bright orange storm sail looks great and we've sorted out the necessary
sheets, etc.
After a week at Torquay, Keith's longtime friend Richard (and his partner
Becky) joined us for the trip to Plymouth. Richard had expressed an enthusiasm
for crossing the Atlantic with us - so it seemed only right for him to
get a feel for the boat! (Having now had the experience, I'm not sure
he's so enthusiastic!) One of the niggling boat concerns we had is that
the engine had been going through too much water in the radiator - which
could be quite serious. Anyway, just as we dropped anchor at Plymouth,
Richard suggested that he call one of his contacts who might be able to
help. Luckily, the person he contacted was in Plymouth and said that if
we brought the boat into a particular marina within one hour, he'd come
and look. So we picked up the anchor and motored around to the marina.
The people at the marina said we could only stay a short time because
they were expecting all the boats from the Fastnet Race to come in! (We'd
joined some of the Fastnet yachts that morning on our way to Plymouth
- including Ecover.). The mechanic duly turned up and spent a couple of
hours fiddling with bits (as they do) and whatever he and Keith did seems
to have done the trick. On the way over to France we motored for some
of the way because the wind and tide were against us, and the engine didn't
use up all the water and the engine temperature remained correct. So that
was a big relief. Also, the guy wouldn't charge us for the work -said
it was a favour for Richard and that Richard could make it up in more
favours! Great. We took the opportunity while in the marina to have lovely
long showers - very indulgent! Walked out very early next morning and
picked up a few bits and pieces we'd been looking for at a local marine
chandlers and took public transport to an out of town industrial estate
to pick up a specialist part we needed. Got back to boat at about 11am
and had to be out of marina by 12. Hoisted the rib onto the front of the
boat (not hanging off the back for the major passage) and motored to the
fuel berth and topped up with diesel. Headed off to France by 12.30pm
on 12th August
Sort of started out aiming for north Brittany coast with the possible
thought of meeting up with our sailing friends, the Pages and the Browns,
who were sailing their boats in that part of the world. But we were a
bit unsure about doing that - it was slightly east of where we wanted
to go, and their boats are shallower than ours and they have more able
bodies on board. The places they were mooring are really tricky navigating
to get into and out of - and not all places had enough deep water for
us. So we were sort of in two minds. Just off Plymouth we rang them and
the Pages were heading to Sark (on way back from France) and the Browns
were also heading there (on their way to France). So, in view of the wind
and tide and time, Keith and I decided we'd do our own thing. Promptly
changed course and headed towards Ushant. There's a really tricky channel
to get around the north/west tip of Brittany/France and you need to get
to the start of it at the right stage of the tide and follow navigation
marks for about 20 miles. The conditions were making steering really heavy
work so Keith did that while I got the boat and us ready for the challenge.
Made thermos of coffee, got warm clothes ready, tidied boat, etc. Then
I worked out the navigation through the channel. For example take course
180 degrees for 5 miles and end up going between two markers, then turn
to 158 degrees until you see a particular light off your port beam, etc.
Meanwhile the tide is adding to the boat speed and rushing you through
the channel. Engine speed about 6 knots, but tide adding 3 knots, so you
feel as though you're racing along! We finally made it through to the
other end at 11.30pm on 13th August. Then it was just another 10 miles
to Camaret - a safe port for boats like us. We got here at about 1.30am
and dropped anchor just outside harbour. About 36 hours after leaving
UK. We hadn't had much sleep - we both found it difficult with the boat
careering around in the difficult conditions - something we'll no doubt
get used to as time goes by. However, we celebrated our arrival with a
scotch - using Keith's lovely Waterford crystal whisky glasses from BAT.
Yesterday, after a long sleep we tidied the boat decks and below and took
the rib into town. Had a lovely shower and meandered down the town to
explore. Found a supermarket and stocked up on some wine and beer (we
had taken our granny shopping trolley and a luggage trolley with us in
preparation). Bought a fresh french baguette, some pate and a fresh tomato
and had a picnic lunch on the waterfront. Loaded the shopping into the
rib and motored back to the boat! We'll probably go back into town the
same way this morning and do some washing at the launderette.
Anyway, we survived the voyage and it hasn't put us off yet! The lifestyle
once at a place is fantastic - we thoroughly enjoyed the relaxation at
Torquay. Our next main challenge is to get past the Bay of Biscay (we're
currently at the top end of it - the stepping off point for the crossing).
We're still solving a couple of our computer/communication problems so
we'll wait here until they're all sorted (and until the weather forecast
is OK) before setting off. After that, we'll be able to relax a bit more.
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